If the customer provides the fabric as it is, with the specific parameters of the fabric, such as fabric organization, fabric weight, yarn line density, etc., the merchandiser can directly look for the fabric or customize the sample. However, if the customer only provides the description of the fabric, or only provides fabric samples without relevant parameters, the individual needs to extract the sample information as much as possible, avoiding a lot of proofing work. When the merchandiser extracts the fabric information, it needs to communicate with the customer several times to understand their requirements for the fabric. For technically demanding fabrics, merchandisers should communicate with customers based on the information they own, such as reducing technical difficulty or suggesting a substitute fabric.
If there are only samples in the customer's data and no specific parameters, the documentary staff will need to submit the samples to the technicians in the samples. They will analyze the samples and usually analyze the samples in the following four aspects.
1. Raw material and blending ratio of the sample: Analyzing the composition of the sample raw material First, the yarn should be carefully disassembled from the edge of the sample fabric and then analyzed. Analytical methods include hand-feeling, combustion, microscopic identification, drug coloring, and chemical solvent. For complex yarns difficult to identify with this company, we can turn to specialized inspection agencies for further analysis.
2. Raw material specifications of the sample: The raw material specifications here mainly refer to the thickness and direction of the yarn. Determine the yarn thickness is generally used in the comparison method, after removing the original yarn, straight and similar yarns of known thickness compared, most of the yarn is the most commonly used specifications, such as the common specifications of the cotton workshop 7.3tex (80 English), 9.7 tex (60 British), 11.7 tex (50 British), etc. It is easier for the merchandiser with a bit of experience to determine the thickness of the original yarn, and the new merchandiser can stick the yarn of common specifications on the paper, mark the corresponding thickness specifications, and make a yarn table for comparison. Of course, a weighing method can also be adopted, that is, after disassembling the yarn, a certain length is cut and then weighed, and then the linear density of the yarn is calculated.
The twisting direction of the yarn can be determined by untwisting method. The yarn to be disassembled is pinched at both ends by the thumb and index finger of both hands, and the thumb of the right hand is twisted inward to observe the yarn untwisting condition. When the yarn is untwisted, it is expressed as S-twisted yarn; if the yarn is twisted, it is represented as Z-twisted yarn. If the disassembled yarn is untwisted in a very short time, it is a highly twisted yarn.
3. Specification of fabrics: The specifications of woven fabrics mainly include warp and weft densities, warp and weft yarn twists, the warp and weft yarns' weaving shrinkage, square meters and weight per gram; the specifications of knitted fabrics mainly include square meters. Weight, coil density, coil length and other parameters.
4. Fabric organization: Through dismantling or fabric mirror observation and other methods, the fabric structure was analyzed to determine the weaving process and the type of loom. Fabric tissue molecules can also be assisted by computer.
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