Under the hot and humid conditions, the wool fibers are subjected to the repeated action of mechanical external forces, and the fiber aggregates gradually shrink and closely interpenetrate each other and entanglement. This property is known as the shrinkage of wool fibers. The use of this feature to process sweaters is called cardigan milling. Milling is a major part of the sweater finishing process. In order to create a good condition for shrinking, and to speed up the shrinking speed, chemicals are usually added during the withdrawal. At present, the cashmere process is mainly used in wool sweaters, camel hair, rabbit hair, Fengpian hair, snow hair wool sweaters, worsted wool sweaters often at room temperature, short time for a net wet cleaning or Light lint finish to improve appearance.
First, the purpose of shrinking
The aim of cashmere sweaters is to improve and improve the inner quality and appearance of sweaters.
1 Milling can make the texture of the fabric tight, the length is shortened, the weight and thickness of the square meter increase, the strength is improved, and the elasticity and warmth retention are enhanced.
2 After the fluffed sweater has a layer of fluff on the surface, the appearance is beautiful, the hand feels rich and soft, and the color is soft. In addition, the fluff produced by the fluffing plays a role of weakening and concealing some of the original defects of the sweater, so that it will not be significantly exposed on the surface of the fabric.
Second, shrinking mechanism
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The reason why sweaters can be shrunk, mainly because the wool fiber itself has a shrinkage, which is an internal cause; and a certain temperature and humidity conditions, chemical reagents and external force, etc. are to promote the hair fiber shrinkage of the external causes. The internal reasons for the puckering of sweaters are as follows.
1, the scales of wool
The surface of the wool fibres is covered with scales. The free ends of the scales point towards the tip of the wool fibres. When a felting agent is present, the wool fibres are moistened and expand and the scales open. At this time, a certain external force is applied to the wool, and the wool fibres will As the movement of the surface scales has a directional friction effect, the direction of movement must be directed to the root end. After the external force is applied, the fleeces of the adjacent fleece fibers are staggered with each other, so that the fleece stays in a new position. When the external force is applied again, the fleece fibers are relatively displaced, so that the external force repeatedly causes the fleece to continue Gentle peristalsis is produced, so that the fibers are tangled and the hair ends protrude on the surface, producing a velvet phenomenon. Therefore, the existence of scales is the most fundamental reason why wool fibers can be shrunk. In other words, only the fibers with the appearance of the scales have the ability to shrink, and the more the scales, the more conducive to shrinking; and the fibers without the appearance of the scale structure, there is no shrinkage, such as acrylic fiber and other chemical fibers, it does not With a velvet.
2, the curl of wool
Because the wool fiber has a double-sided structure, the fiber has a natural space curl. When the external force causes the wool to stretch, the wool will be straightened. After the external force is removed, the wool will be restored to a curled state. In this process, adjacent Wool tangles together. When the wool is squeezed, the wool fibre migrates and migrates. This movement does not have a fixed direction. It is disorderly and irregular. It causes the wool fibers to interpenetrate each other, so the more the wool is curled, the easier it is. Tangled, it is also more conducive to shrinking.
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3, the elasticity of wool
Wool fibers are deformed when they are subjected to external forces. Due to the good resilience of wool fibers, when the external force is removed, the rapid elastic deformation will quickly recover, causing relative movement between the fibers. When the external force repeatedly acts, the fibers will occur several times. This relative movement promotes the interlacing and entanglements of the fibers, which is conducive to the reduction of the velvet.
4, the scale layer of gelatinization
In the process of puddling, because the wool fibers are soaked in the hot felting liquid, the tip of the tile-like scales covering the surface of the fiber is prone to undergo a certain degree of gelation. Under the external force, the fibers may be produced at the gelation place. Local bonding, which is conducive to milling.
Sweatering of woolen sweaters is a complex process, which is the result of the interaction and mutual influence of multiple factors. But the fundamental point is that the presence of scales makes it possible for the wool fibers to entangle with each other and produce a directional movement under the influence of various forces, thereby achieving the purpose of shrinking.
Third, the impact of the process factors
The main factors affecting the process of woollen sweaters are shrinkage agents. Bath ratio, temperature, pH, mechanical force and time.
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1, reducing agent
Dry sweaters cannot be directly plucked. The sweaters must be immersed in a soothing lotion before they can be drawn. The soothing liquid is composed of water and a felting agent, which can increase the lubricity between the fibers, reduce the movement resistance when the external force acts, and make the wool fibers wet and expand, the scales open, the directional friction effect increases, the wet fibers With good deformability, it is easy to produce deformation and it is easy to quickly restore deformation and increase the relative movement between fibers. All these have created favorable conditions for the reduction. In addition, the toughness of the wet fiber is good. When the external fiber is pressed and rubbed, the fiber will not be damaged. The shrinkage agent has good solubility to the wool fiber, has better wetting and penetrating performance to the fiber, easily causes the directional rubbing effect of the fiber, and is easy to wash away after being puddled. At present, commonly used wool sweaters are fleece cleaning agent 209, net detergent 105, neutral soap powder, Yi plus bleaching T and non-ionic detergents, the shrinkage is generally the weight of the sweater %-5%
2, bath ratio
It refers to the ratio of the weight of the sweater to the weight of the soothing liquid. The ratio of the bath when the sweater is puddled should be appropriate. When the bath ratio is too small, the friction between the sweaters increases, and the unevenness of the friction and the acting force increases, so that the unevenness of the pucker is caused. When the bath ratio is too large, the mechanical force is relatively reduced, the friction between the sweaters is slowed down, the consumption of the shrinkage agent is increased, and the time for drawing down the fabric is longer. A suitable drawdown bath ratio is 1:25-35.
3, temperature
When the temperature is higher when puddling, the wool fiber is easy to swell, and the time for shrinking is short and the effect is good. However, when the temperature is too high, the effect of shrinkage is not easy to control, the sweater is easy to be felted, and the fiber is easily damaged. It is generally preferable to control the puddling temperature between 30 and 40°C.
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4, pH
The pH value has a greater influence on the puddling of the sweater. When the pH is too low, the feel of the sweater after being puddling deteriorates. This is because the pH value of the sweater detaches the fiber salt bond and reduces the fiber strength of the wool. The reason; PH value is too high, not only cause the breakage of the wool fiber salt bond, but also will break the disulfide bond of the wool fiber, so that the hair fiber is damaged, the general shrinkage, the pH of the fluffing liquid is required to control at 5 ~10.
5, mechanical force
A certain amount of mechanical force is a necessary condition for the carding of the sweater. The mechanical force is too large and excessive, which will cause the sweater to be damaged and uneven.
If the mechanical force is too small, it will make the sweater too slow and it will take too long. Cashmere sweaters are generally produced in specialized shrinking machines. If there is no shrinking machine, it can also be done in the drum laundry or with human action, but at this time, the bath ratio should be increased to ensure that the shrinking is even.
6, time
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Under certain conditions, shrinking, if the shrinking time is too long, the shrinking will be too full, the sweater will produce a felt; but when the time is too small, the hair will not be fully carried out , it can not reach the effect of shrinkage. Therefore, the sweater's puddling time is generally 3 to 15 minutes. The puckering time of the rabbit sweater is generally 20 to 35 minutes.
There are still many factors that affect the process of shrinking, and the influence of these factors on shrinking is often not isolated and has a close relationship with each other. Therefore, it must be comprehensively considered in actual production.
IV. Milling method and process
Whether or not the woolen sweater nuisance process is reasonable or not directly affects the quality of the puddling, the puddling process is reasonable, and the velvet velvet is produced on the surface of the sweater, which gives a beautiful and soft feeling. Otherwise, there will be two cases, one is that the insufficient velveteen is not enough to achieve the purpose of puddling; the other is that the velvet is oversized and the sweater is felted from the felt to the felt knot. The felt knot is irreversible. Once the felt knots, the fabric is noticeable. Contraction, elasticity disappears, and feels hard. Sweaters become wool felts, which degrade their performance. There are mainly two types of woolen sweaters, namely detergent and solvent drawdown. Among them, the detergent and drawdown method is more commonly used.
1, detergent draw method
The detergent-reducing method is that the sweater is soaked with water before being plucked. The soaking process requires that the bath ratio is 1:20, the temperature is about 35° C., the additive is water, the time is 5-8 minutes, and the sweater completes the infiltration. Need to go through dehydration, can only enter into the fluffing liquid to shrink, the process flow that the detergent shrinks is: Cardigan infiltrate - shrinks the pile - cleans - dehydrates - dries.
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2. Solvent reduction method
Sweater Solvent Milling Method Typically, perchloroethylene is used to wash the fabric prior to puddling, and the sweater is cleaned at a temperature of 25-30[deg.] C. The cleaning time is about 5 minutes. After dehydration into the velvet.
Solvent milling process is: sweater cleaning - shrinking - deliquoring - drying. The technical requirements for the solvent milling process are: the milled temperature is 30-40°C, the perchloroethylene is the auxiliary agent, and the emulsifier is water, and the time is about 5 minutes. This shrinking is generally performed in a solvent finishing machine.
V. Dehydration and drying
After shrinking and cleaning, the sweaters need to be dehydrated first and then dried before they are finished.
1. The dehydrated and cleaned wool sweater should be immediately dehydrated, especially for products such as clips, multi-colors, and embroidery. It should be so, otherwise it is easy to stain. After dehydration, sweaters have 20-30% moisture content. Dehydration can generally be performed on a small home dehydrator or on a fully automatic washing machine. Dewatering should be carried out by lining cloth in a basket or putting a sweater in a cloth bag. In the absence of dewatering equipment, sweaters can also be dehydrated by hand.
2, after drying the sweater after dehydration, still contains more moisture, so all need to be baked, drying should be selected according to the raw material of the sweater dryer, drying time and temperature, cashmere sweater , Camel sweaters, sheepskin sweaters, snow Portland sweaters and other products drying, commonly used cylinder dryer, sweaters tumble in the dryer, while tumble drying, can make free staple fiber It falls off and is sucked into the hopper. After the product is loosened and dried, the fluff is full and the hand feels good. But pay attention to different color sweaters, can not be the same machine drying, to avoid free hair attached to the sweater, affect the appearance of the product quality. The commonly used dryer is the HG-757 type. The temperature is between 70 and 100°C and the time is between 15 and 30 minutes.
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Various proportions of sheep, rabbit wool blend shirts, worsted light sweaters generally use hanging dryer (or drying room) drying. Drying with a shaped hanger, can prevent the cylinder dryer in the tumble caused by the re-start and reduce fluff, which is conducive to the product specifications, but also to create a favorable condition for ironing. Drying time and temperature should be based on the specific circumstances.
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