2019 Milan Menswear Week in Spring and Summer | Prada: A New Elegance

After the conference last Sunday, Miuccia Prada insisted that she preferred to use the most basic and plain words to describe what she did. Don't make gorgeous rhetoric. Just describe words like "simple" or "sexy" or "primitive." Of course, nothing that Prada touched was truly simple.

To make Miuccia's dream come true from the ordinary, you must have an ordinary starting point. Perhaps this is why she built a new series based on sports jackets and jackets, using the classic camel and gray flannel widely, and taking very little on suede and grained fabrics. Then the things that we are familiar with are transparent to different levels. In the subtext of full of psychedelic colors, the performance of the most vivid, some of the power of the flower elements, in the model Paul Hameline's high-necked clothing on the embodiment of a wonderful mix of figurines (said that Miuccia himself was confused by this chafing dishonesty) .

But decades ago, the appearance of "Ugly" printings made Prada's name resounded. Similarly, in May of this year in New York, Miuccia's return to the holiday series was unforgettable. She also said that she imagined that low-waisted shorts could be used as the men's control for the May show, the mini-skirt. Although they were the top "equipment" for beautiful men, they could provoke the same age as the sex movie in the degenerate era. Memory.

Therefore, there is indeed a manifestation of "sex" in the show. When the models were closed, the soundtrack of Frederic Sanchez's Sexy Boy reverberated in the air. In this wonderful setting, it illuminates this different challenge. Miuccia claimed that she eventually wanted to express "a new kind of elegance", giving movement and street elegance (so many sporting elements and sports pieces appeared in the whole series, and I was attracted by unparalleled shoes), and at the same time exceeded. The structure defines itself.

Looking back at the way she was in charge of the men's collection, you will know very well that she looks at men's feelings. She likes to lower men, emphasizing the fragile side of men, not masculine. Why not? Toxic male hormones are laying the dead end of human civilization. So what Miuccia did - not the first time - was to reveal the feminine aspects of men: ruffles, women's handbags, and the alleged "sexy" shorts.

This always can tease us to imagine - giant hunting caps, almost every one looks like, sly Putin rampant in the Western world. After all, Miuccia's political sensitivity created the melting pot of Milan's radical 1970 communism. It is regrettable to these speculations that Kate Moss photographed Galliano's photographs to show his support. The hats of the New York show were inspired only by Galliano's image. In this recent model, Miuccia said that she likes a emaciated male body, a huge hat over his head and a rocking scene. (Ok, it's a bit weak.)

On the show floor, concrete walls made of transparent plastic and seats made of inflatable plastic blocks were designed by Perner Panton in the early 1960s, but they have not been sold until now. This is an invisible environment. The geographical coordinates printed on the floor can hardly provide any help. Obviously, they are devices for "remote places." We don't know where we are. I'm also not sure if Miuccia knows.

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