Experts watch the exhibition, I said that the fabric 丨 Wang Nan takes you from the six highlights of the fabric exhibition, combing the trend of men's wear
Wang Nan
Deputy General Manager of China Men's Design and Trading Center, Researcher of Fashion Trends, and full-time teacher of Shanghai University of Technology and Technology. He was the chief designer of Danish Lingzhi China (Hong Kong) Co., Ltd. In recent years, he has focused on men's wear design and fashion trends research, and has hosted the “China Men's Fashion Trends†industry for three consecutive years (2015-2017).
China International Textile Fabrics and Accessories Expo has assembled the highest level of surface and accessories in China, and has also become the vane of design and development in the industry. This article tries to draw some of the highlights of the show from the perspective of fashion trends and menswear design and development.
Trends are the most intuitive reflection of people's living conditions and lifestyles. The trend of the current trend is multi-symbiosis: anxiety leads to a desire for a calm life, a sense of futuristic support with high technology, a retro nostalgic trend (fifties to seventies), a new Chinese style and a convergence of men and women with the theme of Chinese spiritual life exploration The neutralization trend coexists at the same time.
In response to this, the fabric exhibition has a trend of fabrics that converges with the above-mentioned themes: a texture-sensitive surface that emphasizes volume, casual and exquisite leisure style, folk customs, special texture fabrics, and innovative tannins. .
Of course, through the exhibition, we will also find some common problems in the development of domestic fabrics: color is still an aspect that needs to be strengthened. Men's fabrics generally lack seasonal characteristics, and color saturation and fashion still need to be strengthened in the development of men's formal wear and denim fabrics. For example, in tannin dyeing, the current market trend is tannin blue with high color saturation, while domestic tannin dyeing generally does not capture this trend, and the color is biased towards dullness. In fashion fashion, fabric design tends to converge with the international fashion market. Of course, this is also related to the characteristics of men's wear market demand: the larger market is more conservative, and there are more restrictions on the use of fabrics, colors and other elements; the younger the market, the more open the fashion attitude, the more In line with international trends.
Paper fabric
Fabric highlights: Special paper-like fabrics that emphasize dry, cool and crisp features are not uncommon at this exhibition, which is very popular with the current functional clothing. In the spring and summer exhibitions, various light and crisp paper-like fabrics appeared; the texture and fine mesh composite fabric added a sense of surface texture, which is very suitable for the development of thin and light jackets and trendy windbreakers.
Fabric and clothing design development recommendations: paper-like fabrics are particularly suitable for the development of spring windbreakers, outdoor jackets and other functional items. Due to its complex professional production standards and systems, functional clothing has gradually become a unique faction, forming the so-called functional aesthetics, which has been favored by the fashion industry in recent years. It is possible to follow the capture of the “fashionable and fun†mentality of this type of market and broaden the development of fabrics in the functional clothing market.
Exquisite and rough high quality leisure
Fabric highlights: Super dry feel is the main theme of 2018 spring and summer fabrics. Natural cotton and linen blended fabrics still occupy a large share of this fabric exhibition. At the same time, including acrylic fiber, viscose fiber, polyester fiber blended fabrics, and strive to have a natural feel and appearance like linen and cotton, but also remove the rough sense of the past, become the core fabric to create casual men's clothing.
Fabric and clothing design and development suggestions: fabric design can be used to deal with fabric feel and texture and pattern innovation around the hot folk customs and new Chinese theme; while paying attention to comfort, recovery and functionality, by improving organizational structure, each The blend of materials reflects the refreshing and breathable properties of spring and summer fabrics. In addition to regular casual wear, the design of new Chinese-style clothing and folk-style clothing focuses on the sense of craftsmanship, but also in line with the modern lifestyle and fast pace.
Return to classics
Fabric highlights: Traditional dresses and stripes continue to be popular in formal and shirt fabrics. Classical patterns such as simple large plaids, wide stripes, herringbone and canines are found in formal, casual and knitted fabrics. The various retro styles in the development of shirts continue to be popular, and the faded Maramas plaid shows a strong South Asian atmosphere.
Fabric and clothing design development recommendations: classic plaid, striped production dresses need to avoid the old-fashioned and medium-sized. After all, after 80s and 90s, it has become the main force of clothing consumption. In the development of fabrics, the classic pattern can be used to reconstruct the pattern; the color is in line with the young group, and the color suggestions are more bold and broad. In the development of clothing, the formal wear needs to pay attention to the youngness of the version, the short and young version, the chic and low-key details and the elegant lining design can add value and fashion to the formal items.
Velvet velvet
Fabric highlights: At this exhibition, neutral fabrics that are also suitable for men's and women's fashion development are also a big trend. Neutral fabric feel, color, graphics and texture, together create a popular silhouette of men and women. Another branch of the feminine trend of men's wear is the use of women's exterior fabrics (such as velvet) in men's wear. All kinds of velvet and velvet fabrics became a highlight at this exhibition. In addition to the conventional neutral colors such as black and gray, high saturation colors such as sapphire blue, red, and grapefruit red are also appearing more. At the same time, irregular pleats, organ pleats, regular patterns, and through-burning effects are also popular. In the development of men's wear, in addition to the use of specific clothing (such as traditional wedding dresses), velvet is also widely used in the development of business casual, fashion and other items.
Fabric and apparel design development recommendations: fabric development can focus on velvet surface treatment and burnt flower pattern changes. A variety of corresponding velour fabrics can be used in business casual, fashion tidal suits and dress development. The use of velvet with a variety of pleated patterns to create fashionable clothing; hot stamping silver velvet can be used as a special fabric for wedding dresses, which can enhance the design texture, but also enhance the trend.
Subtle texture
Fabric highlights: rich surface texture, reflected in casual fabrics. Blended cotton, cotton, cotton and silk fabrics with rich hand and texture, exquisite geometric jacquard on cuts, cut flowers, tiny jacquard in trendy functional fabrics, innovative embossing, decorative in outdoor functional fabrics The tiny reflective particle coatings, etc., together create a rich touch experience of the fabric.
Fabric and clothing design and development recommendations: focus on the serial development of fabrics, internal and external design and development ideas, can expand the new pattern, such as mimicking the natural form of the pattern and printing and other diverse composite appearance. At the same time, fabric development should be more closely integrated with the trends of the fashion industry for targeted development. Many well-known clothing brands have already required fabric manufacturers to conduct targeted development based on their own design. But in turn, most fabric manufacturers can take a more proactive attitude, understand and study the fashion market dynamics, and actively develop ahead of time in line with market demand.
Innovative Tannin
Fabric highlights: As a classic fabric, tannin appears in front of everyone with a new look. However, this season's Tannin gives people different styles: ç»— cotton, natural burrs, laser engraving, new printing, tannin-like dyeing treatment of non-denier cloth, etc., and various tannin styles have broadened the design application. This year, the internationally popular tannin blue color is very popular.
Fabric and clothing design development recommendations: high saturation color is a bright spot in fabric development, this year's Tannin color is generally bright. In addition, the design of the pattern and pattern of the tannin fabric should not be limited to the traditional pattern, but should be innovative. For example, the development of a folklore pattern with a sense of handcraft; the design of a fabric texture with a sense of volume; the development of hand-feeling tannins such as quilting. In addition to traditional jackets and trousers, the design of the garment can be extended to more items. Such as casual suits, fashion shirts and other items. In a word, the design of tannins can't be contrary to the inherent thinking, especially in the development of fashion brands.
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