Textile fabrics help editors encyclopedia business card textile fabrics knitted fabrics, according to the weaving method, there are two types of weft knitted fabrics and warp knitted fabrics. Weft knitted fabrics are often made of low-elastic polyester yarn or special-shaped polyester yarn, nylon yarn, cotton yarn, wool yarn, etc., using flat needle structure, changing flat needle structure, ribbed flat needle tissue, double ribbed flat needle tissue, jacquard tissue, hair Circle organization, etc., woven on various weft knitting machines.
table of Contents
Textile fabric concept 1, warp, warp, warp density
2, weft, weft, weft density
3. Density
4, the width
5, gram weight
6, yarn-dyed textile fabric classification 1. soft fabric
2. Very cool fabric
3. Glossy fabric
4. Heavy and heavy fabric
5. Transparent fabric composed of spinning and weaving inspection cloth cutting and sewing 1. Sewing
2. Suture
3. Needle finishing products inspection garment inspection woven garment processing basic knowledge textile fabric component identification textile fabric concept 1, warp, warp, warp density
2, weft, weft, weft density
3. Density
4, the width
5, gram weight
6, yarn-dyed textile fabric classification 1. soft fabric
2. Very cool fabric
3. Glossy fabric
4. Heavy and heavy fabric
5. Transparent fabric composed of spinning and weaving inspection cloth cutting and sewing 1. Sewing
2. Suture
3. Needle ironing finished product inspection garment inspection woven garment processing basic knowledge textile fabric component identification development edit this paragraph textile fabric concept
1. Warp, warp, warp density
- the length direction of the fabric; the yarn is referred to as warp yarn; the number of aligned yarns within 1 inch is dense (warp density);
2, weft, weft, weft density
- the width direction of the fabric; the yarn is referred to as a weft yarn, and the number of rows of the yarn within 1 inch is weft density (weft density);
3. Density
- used to indicate the number of yarns per unit length of the woven fabric, generally the number of yarns within 1 inch or 10 cm. The national standard stipulates the use of the number of yarns within 10 cm to indicate the density, but the textile enterprises still It is customary to use the number of yarns within 1 inch to indicate density. As commonly seen, "45X45/108X58" means that the warp weft yarns are respectively 45 pieces, and the warp and weft density is 108, 58.
4, the width
--The effective width of the fabric is generally expressed in inches or centimeters. Commonly, there are 36 inches, 44 inches, 56-60 inches, etc., which are called narrow, medium and wide, respectively. Extra wide, commonly referred to as wide-width cloth, today's extra-wide fabrics can reach a width of 360 cm. The width is generally marked behind the density, such as the fabric mentioned in 3, if the width is added, it means: "45X45/108X58/60"" is 60 inches wide.
5, gram weight
The weight of the fabric is generally the weight of the square fabric weight. The weight is an important technical index of the knitted fabric. The woollen wool usually also takes the weight as an important technical index. The weight of denim fabric is generally expressed in "ounces (OZ)", that is, the number of ounces per square yard of fabric weight, such as 7 ounces, 12 ounces of denim, etc.;
6, yarn-dyed
- Japan refers to "first dyed fabric", which refers to the process of dyeing yarns or filaments first, and then weaving them with colored yarns. This fabric is called "dyed fabric" and produces yarn-dyed fabrics. Generally known as dyeing and weaving factories, such as denim, and most of the shirt fabrics are yarn-dyed fabrics;
Edit this paragraph textile fabric classification We will briefly introduce the modeling characteristics of different material fabrics and the application in fashion design as follows.
1. Soft fabric The soft fabric is generally light and thin, with a good drape, a smooth line and a natural stretch of clothing. Soft fabrics mainly include knitted fabrics and silk fabrics with fabric structure and soft and thin hemp fabrics. Soft knit fabrics often use straight-line succinct shapes to express the graceful curves of the human body in the design of clothing; silk, hemp and other fabrics are more loose and pleated effect, showing the flow of fabric lines.
2. Very cool fabrics, very cool fabrics with clear lines and volume, can form a full outline of clothing. Commonly used are cotton cloth, polyester cotton cloth, corduroy, linen and various medium-thick wool and chemical fiber fabrics. These fabrics can be used to highlight the design of garments, such as suits and suits.
3. Glossy fabric Glossy fabric has a smooth surface and can reflect bright light. Such fabrics include satin-structured fabrics. Most commonly used in night dresses or stage performances, it produces a gorgeous and dazzling visual effect. Glossy fabrics have a wide range of freedom in the performance of the dress, and can have a simple design or a more exaggerated style.
4. Thick and heavy fabrics Thick and heavy fabrics are thick and scratched, which can produce stable styling effects, including all kinds of thick woolen and quilted fabrics. The fabric has a sense of shape expansion, and it is not appropriate to use pleats and piles too much. The A and H shapes are most suitable in the design.
5. Transparent fabric The transparent fabric is light and transparent, with elegant and mysterious artistic effects. Including cotton, silk, chemical fiber fabrics, etc., such as georgette, satin crepe, chemical fiber lace. In order to express the transparency of the fabric, the lines are naturally full, and the H-shaped and round-shaped design is rich in variation.
Edit this paragraph to form text spinning → weaving → fabric inspection → cutting → sewing → ironing → inspection and editing The purpose of this section of spinning spinning is to wind the cotton yarn into the package into a certain structure and specifications of the package, Suitable for knitting production. In the spinning process, it is necessary to eliminate some defects existing on the yarn, and at the same time, the yarn has a certain uniform tension, and the yarn is subjected to necessary auxiliary treatment, such as waxing, oiling, etc., to improve the knitting performance of the yarn. Improve production efficiency and improve product quality.
Edit this paragraph weaving weaving is a process in which the yarn is organized into a fabric by a loom to form a fabric. This is also the fundamental difference between knitwear and woven garments. The weaving method can be divided into two types of weft knitting and warp knitting, and the fabrics for knitting garments are mostly weft knitted fabrics. Weft knitting is the feeding of one or several yarns from the weft direction to the working needle of the knitting machine, the yarns are sequentially bent into a loop, and the yarns are stringed to form a weft knitted fabric. The machine used to weave such a knitted fabric is called a weft knitting machine. Weft knitting has a great adaptability to the type and linear density of the processed yarn, and the variety of knitted fabrics produced is also extensive. Weft-knitted fabrics are available in a wide variety of fabrics, which can be woven into fabrics for interior and exterior garments of various tissues, and can be woven into single-piece forming and partially-formed products. The weft-knitted process and machine structure are relatively simple and easy to operate. The production efficiency is relatively high, so the weft knitting has a large proportion in the knitting industry. There are many types of weft knitting machines, which are generally distinguished by the number of needle beds, the form of needle beds and the type of needles. The warp knitting is composed of one or several sets of yarns arranged in parallel, which are respectively arranged on the knitting needle while being woven in the longitudinal direction. The machine used to weave such a knitted fabric is called a warp knitting machine. Generally, the warp knitted fabric has less dispersibility and elongation than the weft knitted fabric, and has better structure and shape stability, and its use is also wider. In addition to producing fabrics for clothes, it can also produce mosquito nets, curtains, and laces. Decorative fabrics, medical fabrics, etc., warp knitting machines can also be distinguished by needle beds and needles.
Edit this paragraph inspection cloth because the quality of the grey fabric is directly related to the quality and output of the finished product. Therefore, before cutting, it is necessary to check whether the number of horses, size, density, lot number and linear density meet the requirements according to the cutting cloth ingredient list. The grey cloths shall be inspected one by one according to the standards, and all kinds of defects affecting the quality of the finished products, such as color flowers, missing needles, holes, oil stains, etc., shall be marked and quality recorded.
Edit this paragraph cutting the main process of knitting garment cutting: break material → borrowing → scribing → cutting → strapping. Borrowing is an important part of improving product quality and saving materials. In the process of breaking the material, the defects on the grey fabric are borrowed to the cutting parts or the seams. Knitted fabrics are cut according to the warp mesh accessories. The cutting is generally carried out by means of sleeve cutting. Commonly used are flat sleeves, mutual sleeves, inlay sleeves, stitching sleeves, and slit sleeves. Knitting fabrics should pay attention to the following items during cutting: (1) Do not use the folded marks and printed edges on the obvious parts of the garment. (2) Do not use the tapered hole mark in the cutting, so as not to affect the appearance of the garment. (3) Knitting should be a good shrinkage rate before cutting, and the cloth can be cut after 48 hours. (4) The knitting yarn path is different from the woven fabric. When cutting, pay attention to the straightness of the yarn path to prevent the garment from being twisted.
Edit this paragraph sewing China's knitting industry existing sewing technology and equipment is medium and high speed sewing machine (commonly known as "flat car"), medium and high speed overlock sewing machine (commonly known as "cracker car"), stretch sewing machine, etc. The sewing machine model is mainly used. Since the knitted fabric is composed of a coil string sleeve, the edge of the cut garment piece is prone to disintegration, so the edge of the garment sheet should be overwrapped (commonly known as "copying edge" or "four-wire car") and then using a sewing machine, etc. Sewing processing. The sewing machine and overlock sewing machine are the main types of sewing knitwear. In the sewing process, it is generally necessary to pay attention to the following points.
1. Sewing stitches Because the fabric of knitted fabric has the characteristics of longitudinal and lateral extensibility (ie, elasticity) and the disadvantage that the edge coil is easy to be dissipated, the stitching of the stitched knitwear should satisfy: (1) the stitching should have Knitted fabrics are compatible with stretchability and strength. (2) The stitching should prevent the fabric coil from being dislodged. (3) Appropriate control of the density of the stitches. For example, the stitching density of the flat sewing machine of thick fabric is controlled at 9~10 needles/2cm, the seam density of overlock sewing machine is 6~7 needles/2cm, and the stitch density of the flat sewing machine of thin fabric is controlled at 10~11 needles/ 2cm, the sewing machine seam density is 7~8 needles/2cm.
2. The suture thread is generally 9.8tex×4 or 7.4tex×3 pure cotton and polyester-cotton blended yarn. The chemical fiber knitted fabric adopts 7.8tex×2 elastic nylon yarn and 5tex×6 nylon thread. The suture should meet the following quality requirements: (1) The cotton thread (sewing) for the sewing machine should be made of combed cotton, which has high strength and uniformity. (2) The suture should have a certain elasticity to prevent the thread from being broken due to the twisting or crushing of the thread during the sewing process. (3) The suture must be flexible. (4) The suture must be even and smooth, reduce the resistance or friction of the suture in the groove and pinhole, and avoid the defects such as broken wire and uneven stitch tension.
3. Needle Sewing machine needle is also called sewing needle and needle. In order to achieve the ideal fit of the needle with the seam and the stitch, a suitable needle must be selected.
Edit this paragraph of the ironing garments by ironing to make the appearance of the flat, size and standard. When ironing, the liner is placed in the garment to maintain a certain shape and size. The size of the liner is slightly larger than that required for the garment to prevent the size from being too small after retraction. The ironing temperature is generally controlled between 180 ° C and 200 ° C. It is safer to burn yellow and coke.
Edit this paragraph Finished product inspection Finished product inspection is a comprehensive inspection before the product leaves the factory, including appearance quality and intrinsic quality two major items, the appearance inspection content has dimensional tolerances, appearance defects, seam fastness and so on. The internal testing items include fabric unit area weight, color fastness, and shrinkage rate.
Edit this section of the garment inspection first size, the general color of the deeper shrinkage rate is larger. Open the seam to see if there are holes in the pinhole or broken yarn.
Edit this paragraph woven garment processing basic knowledge of the commonly used clothing woven fabric is the looms in the form of picking, the yarn through the warp and weft interlaced, its organization generally has three types of plain, twill and satin And their changing organization (in modern times, due to the application of shuttleless looms, the weaving of such fabrics does not require a form of picking, but the fabrics are still woven). The components are classified into cotton fabrics, silk fabrics, wool fabrics, hemp fabrics, chemical fiber fabrics, and their blended and interwoven fabrics. The use of woven fabrics in garments is leading both in variety and in production. status. Due to the differences in style, craftsmanship, style and other factors, woven garments have great differences in processing flow and processing methods. The following is the basic knowledge of general woven garment processing.
Editing this paragraph of textile fabric components identification of the identification of fabric components is a simple method is the combustion method. The method is to draw a cloth containing warp and weft yarn at the seam edge of the garment, ignite it with fire, observe the state of the burning flame, smell the smell after burning the cloth, and see the remaining matter after burning, thereby judging Whether it matches the fabric component marked on the durability label of the garment to distinguish the authenticity of the fabric component. First, cotton fiber and hemp fiber cotton fiber and hemp fiber are just near the flame, burning, burning quickly, the flame is yellow, blue smoke. The difference between the odor of burning and the ash after burning is that the cotton burns to emit a paper odor, and the numbness emits a ash ash; after burning, the cotton has very little powder ash, which is black or gray, and the hemp produces a small amount of grayish white ash. Second, the wool fiber and the silk hair are exposed to fire and smoke, foaming when burning, the burning speed is slow, and the burnt odor of the burned hair is emitted. After burning, the ash is mostly shiny black spherical particles, and the finger is crushed. The silk huddled in a fire, and the burning speed was slower, accompanied by a squeaking sound, which gave off the burning smell of the hair. After burning, it formed a dark brown globular ash, and the handcuffs were broken. Third, nylon and polyester nylon, the name of the polyamide fiber, the near flame is quickly curled into a white gel, melted in the flame and blistering, no flame when burning, leaving the flame difficult to continue burning, exudes celery flavor, The light brown melt is not easily ground after cooling. Polyester fiber name is easy to ignite. It is melted near the flame. When burning, it emits black smoke when it melts. It has a yellow flame and emits an aromatic odor. After burning, the ash is a black-brown hard block, which can be broken with fingers. 4. Acrylic fiber and polypropylene fiber acrylic fiber Polyacrylonitrile fiber, softened and melted near fire, black smoke after the fire, the flame is white, burns quickly after the flame, emits the bitter smell of the fire meat, and the ash is an irregular black block after burning. The handcuffs are fragile. Polypropylene fiber, polypropylene fiber, near the flame is melted, flammable, burning slowly from the fire and black smoke, the upper end of the flame is yellow, the lower end is blue, emitting oily smell, after burning, the ash is hard round light yellow brown granules, hand æ» easy broken. V. Vinyl and polyvinyl chloride Vinyl, the name of polyvinyl acetal fiber, is not easy to ignite, and the near flame melts and shrinks. When burning, there is a little flame at the top. When the fiber melts into a gelatinous flame, it has a thick black smoke and a bitter smell. After burning, black bead-like particles are left and can be crushed by fingers. The name of polyvinyl chloride fiber is difficult to burn. It is extinguished when it leaves the fire. The flame is yellow, and the lower end is green and white smoke. It emits pungent and pungent spicy and sour taste. After burning, the ash is dark brown and irregular lumps, and the fingers are not easy to be broken. Sixth, spandex and fluorocarbon spandex scientific name polyurethane fiber, near the fire side of the edge burning, the flame is blue when burning, leaving the fire to continue to melt, emitting a special irritating odor, after burning, the ash is soft fluffy black gray. Fluorine fiber name polytetrafluoroethylene fiber, ISO organization called it fluorite fiber, near flame only melt, difficult to ignite, not burning, edge flame is blue-green carbonization, melting and decomposition, gas is toxic, the melt is hard round black Beads. Fluorinated fibers are commonly used in the textile industry to make high performance sewing threads. 7. Viscose fiber and copper ammonium fiber viscose fiber are flammable, burning speed is fast, the flame is yellow, and the smell of burning paper is emitted. After burning, the ash is less, and it is smooth and twisted with light gray or grayish white powder. Copper-ammonium fiber, commonly known as tiger kapok, burns near the flame, burns fast, the flame is yellow, and it smells sour. After burning, there is very little ash, only a small amount of gray-black ash.
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